Life of the S.S. Zenith City

This article contains never before seen photos of the Zenith City taken at Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan. They are part of the Mikel B. Classen Collection of Historical Pictures.

Edging into the Soo Locks is the S.S. Zenith City an ore freighter.

The S.S. Zenith City slowly makes its way into the Soo Locks.

The Zenith City was a classic freighter ship of its day. It sailed throughout the Great Lakes for many years, and was the longest ship of its day at 387 ft. Launched in 1895 in Chicago, the Zenith City traveled throughout the Great Lakes hauling iron ore back and forth.

The ship sailed without mishap until July 26, 1910, when it ran aground at Au Sable Point in Lake Superior. There was a thick fog and it hit Au Sable’s sandstone reef about a mile offshore. Fortunately, there wasn’t much damage and she was pulled off the reef and was able to resume well enough to get the ship somewhere it could be repaired. Several bottom plates had to be replaced, but it was soon back on the water on its way.

Zenith City sailed until 1946 when it became scrap after World War II.

The bow of the Zenith City at Sault Ste. Marie in 1910.

Six years later, the Zenith City sank. It was a storm near Hammond Bay in Lake Huron. There is very little information about the wreck other than it sank and was then recovered. The Zenith City sailed again.

It continued hauling ore until World War II. The Zenith City was sold to the U.S. War Shipping Administration along with six other ships in 1943. The Zenith City then spent its time taking supplies to the war effort in Europe. One year later the ship was laid up. It would remain there. It was sold for scrap in 1946. The Zenith City was no more. The only memories remain in pictures.

The S.S. Zenith City bridge at a closer angle.

A closer look at the bridge on the Zenith City going through the Soo Locks.

Historical Photos – Ironwood, Michigan

 

A nice colored linen postcard of the Norrie Mine

The Norrie Mine was one of the prominent mines at Ironwood.

I received a few historical pictures from Ironwood. I wanted to pass them along as it has been difficult for me to find pictures from the west end of the Upper Peninsula.  Above is the Norrie Mine. It was the first mine in Ironwood. Named after A. Lanfear Norrie, an explorer leading an expedition looking for iron, he found it. They sank a mine which was named after the discoverer and it became an extremely successful operation.

A late 1800s view of Ironwood from a stereoview taken from the Norrie mine location.

This old stereoview shows the view of Ironwood from the Norrie Mine.

Ironwood began as the camp for Norrie’s expedition. The foreman of the expedition was named Captain James Wood, nicknamed “Iron,” would receive the honor of the new settlement’s name, Ironwood. The town would soon prosper with mining operations springing up all around.

Historical Picture of Ironwood as viewed from the Ashland Mine.

The view of Ironwood from the Ashland Mine. The city was growing quickly.

Ironwood grew fast. Looking closely at the photo above, several mine shafts can be seen on the horizon. The city is growing and the mines are running at full production. Almost all of the trees are gone. This was the beginning of what would be known as the Gogebic Iron Range. It would give life to communities all around, thriving off of iron mines. There were even attempts at gold and silver mining. Some did well with it while others did not.

A night picture of Ironwood with old cars and lots of lights.

This picture is titled “White Way” and shows downtown Ironwood at night in the early 1900s.

To this day Ironwood is a nice town to spend some time in. Much of it still has its turn of the century feel and remnants of its prosperous and historical past is represented all around.

Downtown Ironwood Michigan with the theater lights at sunset.

Ironwood downtown today as the sun sets for evening.

Back to the homepage.

 

Interview on Mathieu Project about Great Lakes Pirates

Poster for the pirates of the Great Lakes

A wanted poster for the Great Lakes Pirates

Want to know more about Piracy on the Great Lakes? This is a podcast I participated in recently for the Mathieu Project with Mathieu Itoney where we spend time digging into the background of Great Lakes Pirates. From the era of the fur trade through prohibition, pirates roamed the Great Lakes. They took advantage of anything they could find and were rarely caught. There were fur trade pirates, timber pirates, Mormon pirates, civil war pirates, brawling pirates, and prohibition pirates. These are True Tales of Freshwater Pirates! Check out the conversation.

Mathieu | Project #1 – Mikel B. Classen – YouTube

To purchase the book Piracy on the Great Lakes, click on this.

Return to the homepage.

Great Lakes Piracy and Pirates – Mikel Classen on Wisconsin Public Radio

Book cover titled "Piracy on the Great Lakes: True Tales of Freshwater Pirates" by Mikel B. Classen, featuring a sepia-toned image of a ship’s deck with rigging and ropes in view.Piracy on the Great Lakes: True Tales of Freshwater Pirates

For over forty years, writer and photographer Mikel Classen has immersed himself in the rich history and culture of Northern Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (UP). His latest work, Piracy on the Great Lakes: True Tales of Freshwater Pirates, uncovers the fascinating and lesser-known stories of pirates who sailed the vast freshwater seas of the Great Lakes. In this article, we dive into the unique maritime history of the region, explore some notorious pirates, and uncover how piracy shaped this rugged frontier.

You can listen to the interview by clicking on the triangle below

The Unique History and Culture of the Great Lakes Region

Because of the nature of the Great Lakes, a culture was created through the mix of Native Americans, French trappers, miners, loggers, and maritime sailors that can be found nowhere else. Like many places, the Michigan frontier was rough and lawless. It was a perfect mix for piracy to flourish.

Living in the UP, one quickly realizes how deeply rooted this history is, but few realize that piracy was also part of this story. It is a mysterious part of our past, shrouded in secrecy as a pirate’s deeds were those that could get a man hung. Renegade sailors and captains preying on ships and settlements across the lakes were not uncommon.

Freshwater Pirates: Who Were They?

Contrary to the romanticized image of Caribbean pirates in flamboyant costumes, Great Lakes pirates were practical and ruthless, wearing wool and flannel. They were often ordinary men who turned to crime—stealing cargo, raiding ships, and resorting to violence to maintain silence. No witnesses are the best witnesses.

The USS Michigan was the only deefence against piracy on the Great Lakes.

The USS Michigan in its early days of patrolling the Great Lakes.

The USS Michigan was the only law enforcement vessel patrolling the entire Great Lakes region, pirates had plenty of opportunities to strike when it was out of sight. With thousands of miles of waterway to patrol, The USS Michigan had a bigger job than it could handle. Pirates exploited this gap by stealing goods from docks or ships and quickly reselling them at different ports, making piracy a lucrative and low-risk venture during the 19th century.

 

Notable Pirates and Piracy Stories of the Great Lakes

Dan Seavey: The Escanaba Pirate

The Notorious Great Lakes pirate Dan Seavey poses for a picture.

Dan Seavey, the Lake Michigan pirate relaxes and poses for a picture after his trial in Chicago.

“Roaring” Dan Seavey stands out as one of the most notorious pirates in Great Lakes history. Originally from Maine, he migrated westward and found the Great Lakes region a perfect place for his illicit activities due to its rugged, lawless frontier. Seavey led a fleet of schooners, raiding ships and shore settlements. He poached and smuggled venison along with women for brothels.

James Jesse Strang and the Beaver Island Pirates

James Jesse Strang was a unique figure—a Mormon leader who declared himself king of his followers on Beaver Island. Strang and his band of pirates, often polygamous and enforcing strict religious laws, raided settlements across northern Lake Michigan, claiming the islands as their own territory. Their tactics included stealing livestock, ships, and supplies, often intimidating locals with public punishments for dissenters.

Strang’s reign ended violently when he was assassinated by his own followers, after which non-Mormon residents banded together to expel the Mormons from the island in what became known as one of the darkest episodes in Michigan history.

The Apostle Islands Pirates

Another intriguing tale comes from the Apostle Islands near Bayfield, Wisconsin. A group of pirates named themselves after the apostles—Mark, Luke, and John—with a leader called “Chief.” They operated during the fur trade era, raiding French shipments and even robbing payrolls. It is told that the Apostle Islands received their name from the Apostle pirates. Piracy during the fur trade years was rampant with wars between the fur trade companies resulted in massacres.

Bully Hayes: From the Great Lakes to the South Seas

Great Lakes pirate Bully Hayes was immortalized in dime novels.

The cover for one of the “Bully” Hayes novels about the pirate that began in the Great Lakes.

Bully Hayes began his pirate career on Lake Erie but eventually sailed to the South Seas, where he became a legendary figure featured in dime novels and pulp fiction. While his exploits in the Great Lakes were typical raiding and theft, his South Seas adventures elevated his notoriety far beyond the freshwater seas.

Wreckers, Timber Pirates, and Prohibition-Era Smugglers

Piracy on the Great Lakes wasn’t limited to raiding ships. “Wreckers” deliberately caused shipwrecks by manipulating lighthouse signals or using fake lights to lure vessels onto rocks, then looted the wreckage. Both James Strang’s followers and Dan Seavey employed these tactics, especially in treacherous areas like the Beaver Islands.

Timber piracy was another major problem in the 1800s, with pirates stealing logs and lumber from federal lands. Interestingly, many settlers supported these pirates because they wanted the forests cleared to make way for farming. This led to the “Timber Rebellion” of 1853, where pirates even rammed the USS Michigan in defiance of federal law enforcement.

During Prohibition, piracy took on a new form with bootleggers smuggling vast quantities of alcohol across the Detroit River. One infamous figure known as the “Gray Ghost” wore gray clothing and a mask, running booze between Detroit and Windsor. The sheer volume of alcohol moved—valued at over $200 million in one year along just one stretch of water—made this era a golden age for Great Lakes piracy.

The Legacy and Mysteries of Great Lakes Piracy

Poster for the pirates of the Great Lakes

A wanted poster for the Great Lakes Pirates

Most Great Lakes pirates were motivated by profit rather than treasure, stealing commodities rather than gold or jewels. However, legends of lost treasures persist, such as the rumored Civil War gold lost near Poverty Island in Lake Michigan and possible hidden riches left behind when the Mormons were expelled from Beaver Island.

These tales, along with the rugged and often brutal reality of piracy on the freshwater seas, paint a vivid picture of a frontier region where lawlessness and survival intertwined. The stories of these freshwater pirates remind us that piracy was not just a Caribbean phenomenon but a part of the American heartland’s history as well.

Continuing the Exploration of Upper Peninsula History

Mikel Classen continues to explore the rich and sometimes dark history of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula through his writing. His upcoming works promise to uncover more wild and surprising stories from this rugged and fascinating region. Keep following for more.

To learn more, check out my book: Piracy on the Great Lakes – True Tales of Freshwater Pirates.

To go back to the homepage: Click Here!

Icy Ordeal of the Alexander McDougall – Lake Superior

A storm on Lake Superior covered this ship in ice trapping the crew inside.

The Alex McDougall whaleback ship encased in ice with the crew frozen inside.

A whaleback ship is an early ore freighter that sailed throughout the Great Lakes. The one pictured, the Alexander McDougall, is shown docked at Sault Ste. Marie, MI after a terrifying ordeal. It was the largest whaleback built in 1898 and was 418 feet long.  The ship was lost for three days sailing through a brutal Lake Superior storm.

When docked at the Soo, she was coated with 20 inches of ice and axes were used to free the captain and the wheelsman from the pilot house. They had remained at their stations unwavering during the storm. The dining room and stateroom were at the rear of the ship and the ice coating and the heavy rolling seas made it impossible to reach. Over time they became prisoners of the ice. During the three days the captain and the wheelman had no sleep or food. It was a miracle they made it with all credit going to the captain and his wheelman for saving the ship, cargo, and crew.

For more information: Click here.

“Wanted” Poster – Piracy on the Great Lakes

The image of a poster we created as a companion to my book Piracy on the Great Lakes

Our Great Lakes Pirates poster

Earlier this month, my publisher, Modern History Press, published my newest book Piracy on the Great Lakes: True Tales of Freshwater Pirates. The book focuses on several known pirates of the Great Lakes. We were able to find pictures for some of them and used them in the book.

In the spirit of having a little fun with the subject, my publisher and I got together and came up with this “Wanted” poster for some of the Great Lakes Pirates. We decided to print a few and make them available to whoever thinks they’re cool. One is going into my office.

These will only be available here on the website or at my in-person events. I will be scheduling my events right after the new year.  The cost of the poster is $5.00. Obviously, we don’t intend to retire soon from this. Get this exclusive companion to the Piracy on the Great Lakes book while they last. To order this poster click here.

Historical Photos – Copper Country – Keweenaw – Michigan

Pasty Boy from the Copper Country holds a pasty bigger than his head.

This is from the Keweenaw with a caption the reads “I’m ‘Rale’ Cornish.”

I recently received a few new additions to my historical pictures collection. I thought it might be fun to share them with everyone. The first one is Pasty Boy up top. This delightful image comes from the copper country.  He’s holding a pasty that is bigger than his head and a cane meant to represent a shepherd’s crook. Cornwall was a long way from the Keweenaw Peninsula, but the Cornish copper miners kept their heritage alive. The Cornish Pasty lives as a shared heritage between the Upper Peninsula and Cornwall, England.

Part of a fleet of four ships the Tionesta made regular runs to the Copper Country.

The luxury passenger liner S.S. Tionesta enters the Portage Canal to receive cargo and passengers from Houghton and Hancock.

Next we have a nice picture of the luxury passenger steamship liner, the Tionesta. Part of a fleet of four, she could carry passengers and cargo. The ship was a frequent visitor to the Portage Canal which runs between Houghton and Hancock, Michigan and would pick up loads of copper and people. If you rode on the Tionesta, you were treated to the best life had to offer. She was launched in 1903 and plied the waves until 1937 sailing through the tumult of a world war, the roaring 20’s and prohibition.  A link below goes to a video of historical images of the S.S. Tionesta.

An excellent video on the Tionesta: SS Tionesta ~~ The Revolutionary Steamer – YouTube

Called the Scott Hotel in recent years, this old landmark still stands a Michigan Historical Site.

The Hotel Scott was one of the premier places to stay in the City of Hancock.

Named after  Archibald Scott, the Hotel Scott opened in 1906. The five story building was made of Lake Superior Sandstone and was one of Hancock’s outstanding places to stay. Currently it is on the National Register of Historical Places. Still standing today at 101 East Quincy Street, it houses apartments instead of the 100 rooms that was previously for guests.

If you enjoyed these historical pictures, check out my book, Faces, Places & Days Gone By.

Italian Hall Disaster – Calumet – MI – 1913

The Italian Hall Disaster in Calumet, Michigan, on Christmas Eve, 1913

Striking Miner’s Children Die in Stampede when someone yells “Fire.”

The Italian Hall disaster of 1913 claimed the lives of many of Calumet's children.

A shipment of coffins arrives in Calumet for the 59 children and 14 adults that died in the panic.

As many of you know, I do a lot of events throughout the year. I’m often asked about the Italian Hall Disaster in Calumet, Michigan, where someone yelled “Fire” and dozens of children were trampled in a panicked stampede for the door, and if there is something in my books about it. The answer is no, but a fellow Michigan author, Steve Lehto, has written extensively about it in a book called “Death’s Door.” This book, in my opinion, is the definitive history of the event.

Recently Steve Lehto gave a talk on the Italian Hall Disaster (also known as the Italian Hall Massacre) at Lake Superior State University.  LSSU has posted that talk online. It is worth a watch. I attended and found the talk engaging and informative. Steve is an excellent speaker. He takes you through a lot of information quickly, but it is a gripping tale that will satisfy any curiosity on the subject. Follow the link below for Steve’s enlightening talk on the subject.

Writers Series – Steve Lehto – Death’s Door: The Italian Hall Disaster – LakerCast (lssu.edu)

Portage Swing Bridge Collision – Houghton – Hancock – Michigan

The Portage Canal swing bridge can be seen in the background of this picture showing the waterfront of both Houghton and Hancock, Michigan.

Tons of copper ingots ready to be shipped are waiting on the Portage Canal Waterfront. The swing bridge can be seen in the background. The canal was a vital shipping lane for the Keweenaw copper.

The Collapse of the Portage Canal Swing Bridge, April 1905

The Portage Canal swing bridge which ran between Houghton and Hancock, Michigan was an amazing bit of engineering. Originally built in 1875, it was constructed of wood and featured a giant gear which swiveled the bridge to run parallel to the canal. It would then swing back into place after a ship had passed so the railroad could run through. The bridge was the only connection there was between the Keweenaw Peninsula and the rest of the Upper Peninsula that didn’t require a boat. Its importance can’t be understated.

In 1895 the bridge was rebuilt out of steel. The wood was replaced and the center swivel gear was now a massive piece of metal that was a marvel in itself. Hundreds of ships would pass through this waterway loaded with Keweenaw copper on its way to factories and smelters on the lower Great Lakes.

Damage from the Northern Wave can be plainly seen. The damaged bridge was replaced in a year.

This picture shows the wreckage of the Houghton Hancock swing bridge. The giant center gear can be seen in this picture. The damage was catastrophic.

On April 15, 1905, a ship named the Northern Wave steamed up the Portage Canal. As they approached the bridge, watchmen signaled the ship. The Captain of the Northern Wave followed the signals (according to him) and collided with the swing bridge. He claimed the signals were wrong. The impact caused the bridge to come down in a mass of steel and wood. By a miracle, no one was killed, but two watchmen had to jump into the canal.

The Portage Canal was effectively blocked. Copper shipping had to be rerouted. The railroad could only reach the shore of the canal, so a large effort was made to cleanup the debris and rebuild the swing bridge. It was rebuilt in a year.

The rebuilt swing bridge was replaced by the lift bridge, the one we see today, in 1959.

One of the collapsed sections for the swing bridge that spanned the canal between Houghton and Hancock in Upper Peninsula of Michigan

One of the collapsed sections of the Portage Canal Swing Bridge showing the twisted metal.

For more information check out the link:

Portage Lake Lift Bridge – Wikipedia

New Reviews for Faces, Places & Days Gone By

Book reviews of my new book: Faces, Places & Days Gone By – A Pictorial History of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

Cover of Faces Places Days Gone By by Mikel B Classen

This is the cover for Mikel B Classen’s new book Faces Places and Days Gone By featuring vintage Harley Davidson.

From the Lansing State Journal and Detroit Free Press.

“Faces, Places and Days Gone By” ($19.95 paperback, $34.95 hardcover) written by Mikel B. Classen, managing editor of “The U.P. Reader,” is an oversized volume that’s full of great, highly detailed vintage images, accompanied by excellent descriptions.

Subtitled “A Pictorial History of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula,” it’s divided into nine sections, including homesteading, logging, mining, ships and shipping, Native Americans and recreation.

Big Eric’s Bridge – Baraga County – Upper Peninsula Michigan

 

Big Eric's Bridge, artfully labelled, sits astride the wild and scenic Huron River.

A View of the Huron River from Big Eric’s Bridge. The spelling of “Erick” is incorrect.The “k” belongs in his last name not his first.

Big Eric’s Bridge – Huron River – Baraga County

A Point North

By Mikel B. Classen

A springtime bloom on a small cherry tree thrives along the Huron River.

The Wild and Scenic Huron River in the Spring is an exceptional time to be there.

Over the weekend I traveled over to L’anse to sell and sign books at the American Legion hall. While I was in the neighborhood I decided to drive north towards Aura and Skanee. My ultimate objective was to reach a wondrous remote place known as Big Eric’s Bridge.

This is an area I rarely get into, but this region of north country leads into the west end of the Huron Mountains. Between here and Big Bay is Michigan’s wilderness at its best. The problem with it is much of it is owned the legendary Huron Mountain Club. But what isn’t owned by them is worth the effort to experience what you can.

The huron River runs through rugged country in Baraga County

This is one of the couple of small falls that make up the river near the Big Eric’s Bridge State Forest Campground

Big Eric’s Bridge crosses the wild Huron River which contains 37 species of fish. Fishing here is amazing with trout the primary fish in the river. This is an anglers paradise and a pristine river.

As I pull in and hear the water rushing in the river, I feel like a weight was lifted from my shoulders. Maybe Big Eric took some of the load. He seemed like that kind of guy. Yes, the bridge is named after a real person. There are some local stories but overall, not much is known about the guy.

The wildness at Big Eric's bridge is exemplified by the tumbling waters.

The Huron River’s rugged and wild waters tumble over cascades along its winding path.

Big Eric Erickson

Big Eric Erickson was a large Swede from Skanee, his birthplace and date are unknown. He spoke with a thick Swedish accent that could sometimes be the butt of a joke. Erickson took it well. Logging for the Ford Motor Company,  Big Eric earned the moniker of Paul Bunyan of Baraga County. Ford had a factory in Pequaming that manufactured parts for the fast growing automobile industry. Ford also had a sawmill in L’anse where Big Eric sold most of his wood.

Eric Erickson was over 6 feet tall and an even tempered individual. He was well liked and had an interesting way of looking at the world. In Richard Dorson’s, Bloodstoppers and Bearwalkers, he describes Erickson like this: “He’s happy when losing money and grumbling when making it, if you meet him in the woods where he’s boss, he’s dressed up in oxfords, dress pants and a silk shirt. In town he dresses like a lumberjack, very ragged.”

Historical Picture of Eric Erickson's Logging Camp around 1920.

Big Eric’s logging camp around the 1920s. This would have been cold work. Photo courtesy Baraga County Historical Society.

Another tale surrounding Big Eric. He was checking out his cook’s food list. He came to loganberries. “Logging Berries – dat’s fine – order a carload of them.” He then came to New England Ham and crossed it out. “Isn’t American ham good enough for dese damn lumberjacks?”

He was known for helping people out when they needed it and was shrewd with his businesses. Eric was good to his workers often helping them when trouble reared its head. When Prohibition hit, Big Eric wasn’t affected much except for the behavior of his workmen.

A historical photo of the Big Eric's Bridge in 1930. Love the woman fishing.

The original Big Eric’s Bridge in 1930. The current one was built in 1992. Notice that the woman is using a fresh cut sapling for a fishing pole. Photo courtesy of the Baraga County Historical Society.

One day his men all left for a speakeasy or “blind pig” as they were called, and didn’t  return. After a few days, Big Eric went to the illegal saloon and with true sorrow etched on his face, asked the bartender, “Can you let me have these men for a few days?” He got his workmen back.

Later in life, he mused about owning a hotel where the only guests would be lumberjacks. Big Eric moved to Houghton and that’s the last we hear from him. The bridge that bears his name is a reminder of his legacy in the region. A finer place was never picked that bears his name.

Big Eric’s Bridge State Forest Campground

Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) are a beautiful wildflower that grows in wet boggy areas.

Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) grow along the river bank. They are one of the first to bloom in the spring.

As I wander along the banks of the river taking photographs, one can’t help but feel the energy of the rushing water. It is spring and everything is coming to life. The leaves of the hardwoods are small and not fully grown. Above the river on a small ridge is a campground.

This area was logged at one time but it is difficult to tell. Many of the surrounding trees have grown to a spectacular height giving the feeling of old growth. Walking the road between the campsites is a walk among tall and thick hardwoods with a few pines thrown in.

Big Eric's Bridge in Michigan Upper Peninsula campground campsite.

One of the nice campsites at Big Eric’s Bridge State Forest campground.

There are 21 campsites here, all of them primitive. They have a table and fire ring at each site. Because of its remote location, all trash is carry out. If you bring it in, you bring it out. There are pit toilets and hand pumped water. If you are looking for camping with amenities, this is not your place.

Sitting at one of the picnic tables that overlook the Huron River, i realize how full of life the place was. Birds could be heard all around and the forest floor was just beginning its coverage. The first of the wildflowers were blooming and the Spring Beauties were just beginning to pop.  I love spring in the U.P.

It’s still early in the year and I feel a chill as the sun creeps to day’s end. I hate to go, but it has been a clear day so the night should get cold. The drive back out is a bit regretful. I really wish that i had had more time to spend at that little campground next to Big Eric’s Bridge.

The Huron River is Michigan’s wild and scenic rivers at it’s best. Cold and untamed it’s flow has created a region of wilderness that is evident throughout Baraga County. The watershed encompasses 61,000 acres and is partly shared with Marquette County.

A view down river as it flows to Lake Superior basin.

The river flows onward to Lake Superior and the Huron Bay.

It can be found off of US-41, exit at L’Anse. Turn right at the four-way stop in downtown L’anse and continue 20 miles on Skanee Road (paved). At the junction of Portice Road and Big Erick’s Road, go right on Big Erick’s Road. One mile (gravel) to the campground.

All writing and photography by Mikel B. Classen, copyright  2023
HIstorical pictures courtesy of Baraga County Historical Society

Big Eric's Bridge State Forest Campground Huron River waterfall

Another View of one of the small waterfalls tumbling across the rocks at Big Eric’s Bridge.

Reverend Abel Bingham’s Journey of Near Death – 1842 Lake Superior – Sault Ste. Marie to Grand Island Through Pictured Rocks

Reverend Abel Bingham Lost in Pictured Rocks – 1842

Author’s Note: Every once in a while I come across a first person account of the early days of the Upper Peninsula that takes a bit of my breath away. Some of these accounts are so vivid, that I leave the story original and in their own words. That is the case with this account of a journey from Sault Sainte Marie to Grand Island by Rev. Abel Bingham. Bingham is quite articulate and to try to paraphrase this would be wrong.

Portrait of Abel Bingham in his older years.

Rev. Abel Bingham, one of the early settlers of Sault Ste. Marie, a Baptist minister sent on a mission to spread his religious message to the Native Americans and anyone else that would listen. His fervor for his mission will nearly get him killed within the wilderness of Pictured Rocks.

Background: Abel (Abilone) Bingham was a Baptist minister  that lived in Sault Ste. Marie as one of its earliest settlers. He established a mission there and began a school for local Ojibwa natives. Bingham frequently traveled into the wilds of the U.P. preaching the bible to the different tribes. The Reverend helped create the first bible in the Ojibwa language. Abel and his wife, Hannah, were well known and well liked among the Sault community.

Abel Bingham arrived in the Sault in 1828 on a mission to convert and baptize the Ojibwa natives of Lake Superior. He was ordained as a Baptist minister. He had been a veteran of the war of 1812 and was shot in the head. Fortunately he lived and when the wound had healed he went back to the war.

He then spent time ministering to Native Americans in New York. Because of this experience, he was appointed by the Baptist Board of Foreign Missions as Missionary to the Ojibwa Indians of Lake Superior, then sent to Sault Ste. Marie. Bingham was instructed by the Board to “establish religious services and extend the benefits of the mission to all within reach of his influence.”

Bingham enthusiastically went to work as soon as he arrived. He set up a Christian school to educate the native children. He established a Baptist mission that held services for Native Americans and the European community. They would be separate sermons. For the first year, he left his family behind, but in 1829 he brought them to the Sault. On the first of April he set out on snowshoes through the woods to Mackinac so he could meet a ship. He returned in July with his wife and children.

Hannah Bingham wife of Abel Bingham ran the Indian School

Hannah Bingham, Rev. Abel Bingham’s wife. She kept the school and ministry running while Bingham was away on his missions.

His wife was reputed to be a good doctor and often attended to wounds and ailments that would crop up in the Ojibwa community. The couple had at least three daughters. They would all take over for the Reverand when he was away on his missions.

Bingham also began a campaign of intemperance and started a temperance society. This was aimed at both European and native people. The Sault it was noted, was full of vice and needed to find its way to righteousness.

Abel Bingham would frequently set out on expeditions at all times of the year in his efforts to bring the word of God to the Ojibwa. From the Sault to Marquette, Bingham would travel summer or winter to fulfill his directive. One year he did a 300 mile mission along the southern shore of Lake Superior. He was so determined that he worked with a man named John Tanner and Dr. James, a surgeon at Fort Brady, to create an Ojibwa version of the bible which Bingham would carry with him and distribute to the natives.

He knew many of the Ojibwa chiefs of the day including Shingwauk and Shingaba W’Osssin, Kawgayosh and Shegud son -in-law of Shingaba W’Ossin. Shegud would work with Bingham as a guide and interpreter replacing John Tanner.

A quick note here. John Tanner and Bingham would have a falling out that would devolve into Tanner losing his wife and child to Bingham who helped them get away from Tanner’s temper. Tanner, who was raised by an Ojibwa tribe, would later be accused of murdering the brother of Henry Schoolcraft, James Schoolcraft. He then disappeared without a trace.

 

In January of 1842, Bingham set out for Grand Island a trip of about 150 miles along the Lake Superior Shoreline. There was a small band of Ojibwa residing on the Island that he regularly preached to. There was a theory at the time that if the natives weren’t regularly taught religion, they would fall back to their old ways and they would have to be reindoctrinated. He had with him as a guide and interpreter, Henry Shegud, a companion and interpreter who accompanied Bingham on many of his trips. Bingham’s  account of that journey follows:

“Spent two days with the Indians at Tahquamenon holding services as usual. Snow had fallen during our stay, making heavy travelling for the dogs, who could go but a short distance without stopping. Did not reach White Fish Point the first day; feared our provisions would give out and felt almost inclined to return. But next morning, after taking a portage across the Point which lessened the distance, we found the traveling better, took courage and pressed ahead. Third day, came to a beautiful bay, at the mouth of Grand Marie River, ninety miles from the Sault. Being rainy the ice was covered with water, through which we had to wade the whole distance across. Next morning, passed the Grand Sable or great sand banks, stretching along the shore some eight or nine miles, nearly perpendicular, and from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet in height. The curious stacks of ice that had been formed by the restless motion of the great Superior on one side and the huge banks on the other side, presented as grand and sublime a view as imagination could paint. The heavy surf from the broad lake rolled in with awful majesty and dashed with tremendous force against the massive rocks.

Native American Ojibwa village on Grand Island in Lake Superior

The rare picture of the Native American village on Grand Island. This was Abel Bingham’s objective when he left the Sault.

“After passing the Pictured Rocks, we ascended the ledge and camped in a small ravine. We were within twelve or fourteen miles of the island, but could pass no further on the ice or beach, the lake not being frozen at this point, so must take to the woods. The travelling was so rough and uneven we were obliged to leave our dog-train, oil-cloth, buffalo robe and oil-cloth overcoat, let the consequences be what they might, strapped our provisions on our backs and continued our march till we came upon a hunter’s camp, so recently deserted that the embers were still alive and found by our compass that we were lost. I felt much uneasiness and concern; took my Bible and read the 41st, 42d, and 43d Psalms, which were the first that presented themselves. The word both reproved and comforted me. Spent the Sabbath here and held divine service, preaching to an audience of one. Monday, retraced our steps, descended a ledge of rocks into a deep ravine and made two or three unsuccessful attempts to climb the opposite bank. If we could not find a pass up this precipice, we must return without visiting the island, which would be very unfortunate, as we were now limited to one meal a day. My interpreter cast off his pack and snowshoes, commenced climbing and in a few minutes, sang out, ‘Here is a place I think we can pass.’ This was a small protuberance somewhat resembling a man’s nose, with perpendicular rocks on both sides of great height. Here we descended the ledge by letting ourselves down from bush to bush and found ourselves on Lake Superior again, within three miles of the lodges. It was excessively cold, with a severe headwind, so that, with my ear-caps and handkerchief both tied over my ears, I froze one of them going that distance. At 2 o’clock, found ourselves comfortably seated in Wazawwadon’s lodge, who was expecting us Saturday. Mr. Williams, an American living on the island, received us with great kindness and fed up our dogs, which were nearly starved while going through the woods. He also furnished us with provisions and everything necessary for our return journey. While there, held meetings at the lodges and at Mr. William’s house. Arrived at home much fatiqued; was absent twenty-seven days; preached fourteen discourses, camped sixteen nights in the woods and was detained one day by severe weather.”

 

Bingham would call Sault Ste Marie home for many years. His mission would flourish but the grueling pace would take its toll. In 1853 he wrote “As the white population of our place has increased, the Indians have decreased; numbers by death, and others by withdrawing from the place and going to other parts. And when the number was considerably reduced at this place I commenced travelling among them to bear the gospel message to them; and for several years I travelled somewhat extensively, visiting them at their distant locations; in the winter on my snowshoes, and in the summer in my boat. As both these modes of traveling required much labor and caused much fatigue, the chills of 67 winters have so far enfeebled my system that for two years past I have traveled but little. Yet I remain at my station and keep up my school and my religious services both with the white population and Indians as in former years.”

In 1855, he would retire and close his missionary school. After attending the opening of the Soo Locks, he boarded a ship and sailed to Detroit and then traveled to Grand Rapids. The land on which his missionary school and his home stood was sold. The Chippewa County Courthouse now stands there.

William's Landing on Grand Island in Michigan is one of the oldest places on Lake Superior

William’s Landing, Grand Island. The Williams family began a trading post there near the small Native village that also occupied the Island.

For more information on this story follow these links:

https://www.jstor.org/stable/23169601

https://www.pccmonroe.org/audio/abel-bingham-missionary-to-the-seneca-and-ojibwa

https://quod.lib.umich.edu/b/bhlead/umich-bhl-851002?view=text

 

 

New Release! Faces, Places & Days Gone By, a Pictorial History of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

My newest book, Faces, Places, & Days Gone By, is now available. The book contains over 100 historical pictures from my personal collection of Upper Peninsula images. The book is similar to what I’ve done over the years on this website with the historical pictures featured here. Each picture in the book features commentary and a look into Michigan’s past. Through the use of Stereoviews, cabinet cards, postcards and photo prints, there are photos from all corners the U.P.  I will be carrying copies at my upcoming events including this weekend in Escanaba. This is one you won’t want to be without and it is suitable for all ages.

To order click here: Amazon

Here are some early reviews of the new book:

“With his book Faces, Places, and Days Gone By, historian Mikel B. Classen has achieved a work of monumental importance. Drawing from his collection of archival photographs, Classen takes readers on a journey in time that gives rare insight into a vanished world.” —Sue Harrison, international bestselling author of The Midwife’s Touch

Mikel Classen’s Faces, Places, and Days Gone By provides a fascinating and nostalgic look at more than a century of Upper Michigan photography. From images of iron mines and logging to Sunday drives and palatial hotels, you are bound to be in awe of this chance to visit the past.” — Tyler R. Tichelaar, award-winning author of Kawbawgam: The Chief, The Legend, The Man

“Mikel Classen’s new book, Faces, Places, and Days Gone By, belongs in every library in Michigan. And when I say every library, I’m talking about every public, high school and college storehouse of knowledge.” — Michael Carrier, MA, New York University, author of the award-winning Jack Handler U.P. mystery series.

To order click here: Amazon

Rudyard Kipling Leaves His Mark on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

Rudyard Kipling

Across its history, the Upper Peninsula has had many famous and distinguished visitors to the region. Like today, the U.P. has always been an attraction to visitors and tourists. From Mackinac Island to Pictured Rocks. From Copper Country to the resorts of Delta County, visitors have come to view the wonders for nearly 200 years. Great steamships and passenger railroads once traveled to and across the peninsula. Before highways, these were the only ways to travel.

In 1889, Rudyard Kipling embarked on a trip from New York to San Francisco. He would have been about 30 years old and early in his writing career.  He had a couple of very successful books  under his belt, including Soldiers Three which contained the monumental tale of Gunga Din. The Jungle Book would be released the next year.

A leg of this journey brought Kipling through the U.P. on the Soo Line railroad. One of his early stops was at a budding logging town in Chippewa County. Though referred to as Pine River at the time, it had caused confusion because there was another place already in Michigan called Pine River. Instead, Soo Line General Manager named Fred Underwood, who was an avid Kipling fan, was travelling with him, suggested that the town be named after their illustrious passenger, so Pine River became Rudyard, the name it still bears today.

Proceeding east through Manistique and onwards past the Rapid River, Kipling stopped at another logging community. When he asked Underwood what the name of it was, he was told it didn’t have one yet. It would be dubbed Kipling.  The credit to applying Kipling’s name to the two towns goes to Underwood who had the right to name stops on the line in his position as General Manager. Many past historians have claimed there is no evidence that Kipling ever came through the U.P.  I disagree. When Kipling was informed by Underwood that the towns had been named after him he was quite flattered and requested pictures of both places.  “I write to beg you to send me a photograph if possible, of either Rudyard or Kipling or preferentially both.  I shall take a deep interest in their little welfares.”

Kipling dubbed them his “sons in Michigan.” He even included a poem which is reprinted below.

KIPLING’S MICHIGAN TWINS

“Wise is the child who knows his sire”
The ancient proverb ran
But wiser far the man who knows
How, where and when his offspring grows
For who the mischief would suppose
I’ve sons in Michigan?

Yet am I saved from midnight ills
That warp the soul of man
They do not make me walk the floor
Nor hammer on the doctor’s door
They deal in wheat and iron-ore
My sons in Michigan

Oh! Tourist in the Pullman car
(By Cook’s or Raymond’s plan)
Forgive a parent’s partial view
But may be you have children too
So let me introduce to you

My sons in Michigan

-Rudyard Kipling, poem reprinted from wikipedia

 

The poem itself mentions the view from the “Pullman Car.”

In 1922, after publishing a book of local history, the town of Rudyard sent Kipling a copy. He responded with a letter which seems to confirm his time in the Upper Peninsula. The letter sent to the town of Rudyard from Kipling in 1923 has Kipling recalling memories from his time spent in the U.P.!

““I have not been in Michigan since a trifle more than thirty years ago, and in those days big stretches of the State were hardly settled up, and the trade at the small stores in Schoolcraft County, if I recollect aright, was nearly all barter. There certainly did not seem to be any prospect of hay for export in those days and it is hard to realize that all the lumber round you must be cleared by now.” (15 January 1923: British Library).

Schoolcraft County is where most of his trip would have travelled between Rudyard and Kipling. This letter leaves little doubt he was in the U.P. 30 years previously. His description of the region is accurate and his mention specifically of Schoolcraft County leaves little doubt to his one-time presence. His name lives on with the namesake communities that still exist today, though Kipling (the town) is but a shadow of itself.

More about Rudyard Kipling here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rudyard_Kipling

https://www.britannica.com/biography/Rudyard-Kipling

https://www.biography.com/authors-writers/rudyard-kipling

https://www.nobelprize.org/prizes/literature/1907/kipling/biographical/

 

A Historical Trip to Mackinac Island – 1893

Arch Rock on Mackinac Island in 1893. It still looks pretty much the same to this day.

I recently came across a group of pictures from a trip to Mackinac Island in 1893. They were very nicely dated and location labeled. That is where it stopped. No one in these pictures are named unfortunately.

Taking the trip across the Straits in 1893.

Like we still do today, taking a boat across the Straits to get to Mackinac Island is a fun adventure. The women on this trip don’t look that happy. I wonder how many pins they needed to keep those hats on.

Finding some leisure time on one of the cottage porches.

A relaxing afternoon on the porch, these ladies are ready to enjoy the Island lifestyle.  Dressed at the height of fashion, they seem ready for a Mackinac social event. Or maybe a walk around the Island. Possibly have a picnic.

Picnicking Victorian style.

No trip to Mackinac Island is complete without a picnic or two. Whether it is 1893 or now, it is or should be an important part of a visit. I love how the ladies in the picture are drinking out of china cups.

Arch Rock is an iconic limestone formation that has endured the weather as far back as memory goes.

Mackinac Island’s incredible beauty won it the distinction of being our second National Park and then Michigan’s first State Park. Arch Rock in 1893 looks much like the Arch Rock we see today. All across the island are beautiful rock formations that  are the stuff of legends out of the mists of time.

Another porch shot of this group of ladies on Mackinac Island

After a day of exploring, it’s time to relax back at the cottage. Easing back with a fresh breeze across the Straits, is always an exhilarating way to end a day or visit to the Island of Mackinac.

For more information about Mackinac Island, check out these links:

https://www.mackinacisland.org

https://mackinac.com

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mackinac_Island

Coming Soon! My New Book: Faces, Places and Days Gone By a Pictorial History of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

The new cover for my book Faces, Places and Days Gone By, a Pictorial History of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

This new book, Faces, Places, & Days Gone By will be released in the next few weeks. If you are a fan of the historical pictures I post on this site, this book is for you. I have opened up my collection of Upper Peninsula historical pictures to share with my readers over 100 rare glimpses into the U.P.’s past. Here’s what is already being said about the book:

Enjoy a Visual Trip to See How People Lived and Worked in the U.P. in
Centuries Past!

Classen’s pictorial history is the next best thing to a time machine, as we get a front-row seat in the worlds of shipping and shipwrecks, iron and copper mining, timber cutting, hunting and fishing and the everyday lives of ordinary folks of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula across more than 100 years. Faces, Places, and Days Gone By peers into our past through the lenses of those that lived and explored it. See what they saw as time passed and how the U.P. evolved into the wonderous place we know today.
From the author’s unique collection, witness newly restored images from long lost stereoviews, cabinet cards, postcards and lithograph engravings. Join us on a visual journey to relive some of those moments, and discover a unique heritage through those faces and places. From the Soo to Ironwood, from Copper Harbor to Mackinaw Island–you’ll never see the U.P. in quite the same way!

With his book Faces, Places, and Days Gone By, historian Mikel B. Classen has achieved a  work of monumental importance. Drawing from his collection of archival photographs, Classen takes readers on a journey in time that gives rare insight into a vanished world. — Sue Harrison, international bestselling author of The Midwife’s Touch.

Mikel Classen’s Faces, Places, and Days Gone By provides a fascinating and nostalgic look at more than a century of Upper Michigan photography. From images of iron mines and logging to Sunday drives and palatial hotels, you are bound to be in awe of this chance to visit the past. — Tyler R. Tichelaar, award-winning author of Kawbawgam: The Chief, The Legend, The Man

Mikel Classen’s new book, Faces, Places, and Days Gone By, belongs in every library in
Michigan. And when I say every library, I’m talking about every public, high school and college storehouse of knowledge. — Michael Carrier, MA, New York University, author of the award-winning Jack Handler U.P. mystery series

It is my hope that everyone will enjoy these images of days gone by as much as I do. This edition is volume 1 for what I hope to be a continuing series so that others might enjoy having this collection too.

Wreck of the Steamship Oregon in Lake Superior – Marquette, Michigan

The shipwreck of the steamship Oregon washed ashore near Middle Island Point north of Marquette, Michigan. (Courtesy of Mikel B Classen Historical Pictures Collection)

Shipwrecks are always a fascinating subject but not all of them end up in terrible tragedy. Such is the case of the wreck of the Oregon which took place north of Marquette in Lake Superior.

The Oregon was a steamer freighter, one of the earlier incarnations of the freighters we see today. On October 15, 1905, it wasn’t ore she was carrying, but lumber. The Oregon was steaming west across Lake Superior when the wind began to pick up. The Lake Superior surf rose and the ship began a rough ride. Behind her was another ship that was being towed, an old schooner named S.H. Foster being used as a barge. They were on their way to Pequaming in the Keweenaw Bay.

Near Stannard Rock, almost the precise middle of Lake Superior, things were getting ugly. The schooner barge was pulling hard and the strain on the engines were getting intense. Captain Elliot, the skipper of the Oregon was a well seasoned sailor and was pushing his ship as quickly as he could. He knew the brewing storm would be one the Oregon might not survive if she were caught in the middle of Lake Superior.

The wind roared, the waves rose, and a steam pipe burst. It was the main steam pipe and it split open for two/thirds of its length. The Chief Engineer, Wellman, wrestled loose a length of chain and wrapped it as tight as he could. The repair was fragile and inadequate for the job ahead. The Engineer told the Captain exactly that the repair wouldn’t last and they needed to find shelter for the the ship as soon as possible.

Consulting his charts the Captain decided to head for Partridge Island north of Marquette. He was sure they could ride the storm out in what was then called Wahoo Bay, the inlet between Partridge Island and Middle Island Point.  He reduced speed hoping that lessening the strain would make the repair hold until shelter. The schooner still trailed behind. Its skeleton crew of five men were  keeping the ship on an even keel but that was becoming harder as the wind kept building with gusts hitting 48 miles per hour.

At 2 am Partridge Island loomed out of the blackness. Great granite boulders lined the passage into the island’s lee side. A danger frought passage in the daylight, it was a miracle of steerage that got them beyond the deadly rocks and reefs. Suddenly the ship lost power and a new problem arose. The ships propeller had tangled in a fish net. because of the blown steam pipe the ship didn’t have the power to tear free. The Oregon was at the mercy of the storm.

With no control the crew of the Oregon cut the S. H. Foster loose to fend for itself. The wind caught the Oregon broadside and washed it ashore. The schooner’s luck held when its anchor caught on a rock crevasse and held. She was in the lee of Gull Rock.

The Marquette Life Saving Station was notified and they loaded their equipment and surfboat onto a wagon and headed north. It was over seven miles to the wreck site and took them nearly two hours to get there.

When they got there they decided to wait and see what happened. Both ships seemed stable where they were, so they waited and watched ready to spring into action should events call for it. But both ships rode the storm out where they were. As the gale died, the lifesavers left.

The schooner was able to sail into Marquette while the owners of the Oregon, a Chicago company, hired the Great Lakes Towing Company to get the ship offshore and back into the water. The tug Wisconsin did the work and after 24 hours of pulling and jerking the tug got the Oregon free.

After an initial inspection, the Oregon was towed to Detroit and there she was dry docked. Her fate would be eventually decided as scrap metal. By some miracle, No one was hurt or lost on either ship during the entire incident. Captain Elliot would later claim it was the worst storm he’d ever been in during his years sailing the Great Lakes.

 

Grand Sable Falls and Dunes – Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore – Grand Marais, MI

Grand Sable Falls in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore near Grand Marais. Photograph by Mikel B. Classen

Grand Sable Falls is located on the eastern end of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Though it is not the largest waterfall in the park, it’s beauty makes it one of the park’s premier sights. The falls are located a mile west of Grand Marais off H-58, a well marked parking lot is the trail head. The walk to the falls is short and not difficult. The 168 steps to the bottom provide different views of the falls on the way down and from here can be seen this 75 foot cascade in its entirety. The stream is surrounded by hardwoods of Maple and Aspen adding to the falls’ ever changing look with the seasons. This is an incredible autumn destination. During the Summer, look closely, Trillium and Lady Slippers can be spotted in the forest.

Trillium in Black & White. Photograph by Mikel B. Classen

This has always been a special place and marks the beginning of the massive Grand Sable Sand dunes. A small walk from the bottom of the falls to the beach, just a few yards, awaits one of the most spectacular views on all of Lake Superior.  Standing there looking up at the immense sand dunes that stretch in an arc to Au Sable Point 15 miles away, is a moment worth walking to. As a suggestion, walk the shore back to Grand Marais from here. It’s a great alternative to the stair climb.

Lady Slippers are one of the wildflower wonders of the U.P.  Photograph by Mikel B. Classen.

The eastern end of Pictured Rocks gets much less traffic than the west end at Munising. Grand Sable Falls is one of the overlooked attractions at the National Park. Missing this is a big mistake. This is a must-see for any trip into Grand Marais.

Historical Picture of Grand Sable Falls with visitors. Today, there are stairs. People and photographer unknown. From Mikel B Classen historical pictures collection

Special Note: This attraction is located within the National Park. It was announced that the National Park Service (NPS) would be instituting fees or requiring passes for park visitors beginning this year. At this moment it is unclear what that will be and how this will affect visitors to Sable Falls. I advise stopping into the NPS visitor’s center first to learn what the requirements are if any. Access has always been free and open before.

Where Grand Sable Creek meets Grand Sable Dunes at the shore of Lake Superior. Photograph by Mikel B. Classen

Historical Houghton’s Ambassador Restaurant – Houghton – Michigan

The outside of the Ambassador, like Dr. Who’s TARDIS, quiet and unassuming on the outside, but step through the door and a different and unexpected world is revealed.

Houghton, Michigan in the Keweenaw Peninsula is easily one of the truly  historical cities in Michigan if not the midwest. Just driving down the streets takes one back 130 years. If it wasn’t for the cars, there wouldn’t be much difference. Many of the buildings are over a century old and still stand, used for businesses to this day.

Inside, many of the old buildings, the interiors have been modernized, but one is a marvelous step back into time. The Ambassador Restaurant is worth going to, simply to see the inside. It is colorful and antique while providing wonderful views. It is a place where the old town still lingers.

When walking into the Ambassador the colored lights and murals give a sense of wonder when coming through the door.

Built in 1898, the brick building is one block east of the Houghton Lift Bridge. From the outside, it almost seems like just any other place, but when you open the door, you step into a showcase of stained glass, murals, and woodwork. The back wall is lined with windows that provide expansive views of the Portage Canal, the Houghton Lift Bridge, and the city of Hancock, topped by the Quincy Mine hoist protruding into the skyline.

The back wall of the Ambassador is mostly window. The Houghton Lift Bridge can be seen through the window and the Jail Guard panel of the 3rd mural can be seen.

Though stained glass decorates the Ambassador throughout, it is the murals that adorn the walls and ceiling that capture the attention. The murals were originally painted as large oils on canvas and were commissioned by Joseph Bosch owner of the Bosch Breweries which were located in Houghton and Lake Linden. They were painted by a Mr. Rohrbeck and hung in the Bosch Brewery for several years. Eventually they came down and were hung in a bar that was east of the Ambassador called the Giltedge Bar.  Prohibition struck and the murals were taken down and stored away. The Ambassador was a known speakeasy during Prohibition called Hole in the Wall.

This is the first mural which appears above the bar. The gnomes are brewing their beer.

When prohibition was repealed, saloons reopened or at least brought cocktails out of the closet, and began remodeling and redecorating  the bars around town where the murals were rediscovered. Their next home was the Ambassador where they are now. The date of this is unsure, but it is believed it was in the 40s during a remodel.

This is the second mural that is across from the bar. The party is rolling and the drinking is heavy. Below it some of the stained glass windows are visible.

If looked at in the proper order, they tell a story. The first depicts gnomes brewing beer. They are stirring it up in a large cauldron like a witches brew. The second mural has the gnomes drinking the beer and partying hardy. The third shows them the morning after, hungover and spent, wiped out by their night drinking. A guard is outside so their drunk has ended with the lot of them locked up. This last mural has three separate panels and covers most of the west wall  in the dining room. The artwork is superb and it is done with an obvious sense of humor.

This is the third mural which adorns the dining room wall. It is actually three panels, but it is so big i could only fit the middle one into a picture. The jailer panel can be seen in another picture.

The Ambassador is a restaurant that has also won some accolades. Back in the 60’s they developed their own pizza recipe and has since won a place in Pizza Magazine’s Pizza Hall of Fame. Personally, I never knew there was such a thing. But hey, who am I to argue, the food is excellent and not overpriced.

The bar back wall, the Portage Canal can be seen through the windows as well as more of the stained glass above them.

Never been here? That needs to be fixed. Any trip to the Houghton area and Copper Country, should include a stop here. It is a taste of “old” U.P. that is so much more than just a meal. I stop here and have a beer just to look at the place. It never gets old.

There’s even a poem about the Ambassador:

COME FILL A BUMPER

On or about nineteen hundred and two, Mr. Rohrbeck was given a job to do.
With brushes in hand and gnomes in his head, he created the masterpiece on the wall above.
First home for the paintings was the old Giltedge Bar, east of here, but not too far.
Streets were of dirt, sidewalks of wood, hitching posts for horses, business was good.
Beer for a nickel, whiskey for a dime, sandwiches a quarter any old time.
Prohibition was next, and became the law, the Ambassador, a speakeasy, called “Hole in the Wall”
Paintings were rolled and stored away, for twelve long years in the dust they lay.
At last came nineteen thirty-three, the law was repealed and Bacchus was free.
Saloons and taverns opened their doors, folks danced, sang, and drank spirits once more.
The old bar was hauled out of its storage place, and the paintings were hung on the walls they now grace.
The artist, long gone, would be proud if he knew, that folks still enjoy them as much as they do.

 

Poem above taken from the Ambassador’s website. For more information about the Ambassador Restaurant, go to their website at https://theambassadorhoughton.com/

This mural is a small one near the door at the entrance to the restaurant.

Review of True Tales, the Forgotten History of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula – Reviewed by Tom Powers from Michigan In Books

I received a copy of a review of my new book, True Tales the Forgotten History of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. It was written by Tom Powers whose blog, Michigan in Books, has been reviewing Michigan books for several years. The link to it is here: https://michiganinbooks.blogspot.com/2022/05/june-1-2022-post-79.html 

For those that don’t want to follow the link I present the review in its entirety below.

True Tales: the Forgotten History of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula by Mikel B. Classen.

“Even Michigan natives who know just a little about the Upper Peninsula are aware of how unique it is geographically and historically. It is a beautiful, wild, rugged, sparsely populated peninsula full of unforgettable scenic wonders that is equaled by its unique and often strange history. This work by Mikel B. Classen is a great introduction to the often remarkable and memorable history connected to the U.P. that in all honesty weren’t forgotten by the general public. They are historical stories they never even knew about.”

“Among my favorites is the account of the last stagecoach robbery east of the Mississippi which took place in the U.P. The robber called himself Black Bart and killed one passenger and wounded another. Then there’s the Great Lake pirate who operated all over Lake Michigan from his base in Escanaba.  I thought I knew all the relevant facts about the Ontonagon Boulder. I didn’t. It was a mass of pure copper the Native Americans worshiped, but the Hell with their beliefs. The boulder was transported to Washington where it was misplaced and lost for years. The boulder was the spark that lit the Copper Boom in the U.P. The author also writes of the prominent settlers to the U.P., throws in the odd shipwreck, and relates the story of a couple of castaways on Isle Royale. The two survived a winter on the island by eating bark, roots, and berries. The husband went crazy from hunger and his wife feared she was next on his menu.”

“Those who consider history boring need to read this book before doubling down on their misplaced judgement. The book is jam-packed full of interesting and arresting true stories tied to U.P. history.  All I can say is, another volume please.”

If you are interested in purchasing True Tales, it can be picked up on Amazon or it can be ordered through your local bookstore.

Historical Logging Camps – Images of Upper Peninsula Logging – Michigan

 

Logging Camp near Manistique.

There were logging  camps in every part of the Upper Peninsula. They are the stuff of north country legends and lumberjacks were notorious for their drinking and brawling. Most of the lumbering towns have their tales of bullets and blood.

Sawmill that was located near Skanee.

Logging covered the entire U.P. and in a decade, much of the thick pine forests were cut leaving behind them an ocean of stumps. The dense forests we see today are a testament to the recovery power of the natural environment.

Logging with horses near Escanaba

Horses did  much of the work as the logs were slid out across the frozen ground in winter. It was a brutal job in harsh conditions. Many died in the pursuit of the lumber that went to build so many cities and homes.

A tow of ships taking lumber to market in the cities of the south.

A large portion of the white pine lumber went to help rebuild the city of Chicago after the great fire in 1871 where over 17,500 buildings were destroyed.

Negaunee Saw mill and Crew.

For more information on logging in the U.P. check out the Tahquamenon Logging Museum in Newberry. https://www.michigan.org/property/tahquamenon-logging-museum

 

Video – Mikel Classen talks about his U.P. Notable Book – Points North

This is a recent video of me talking about my book Points North. It is a bit rough because my zoom hookup was sketchy. I did this for the U.P. Notable Books Club that is administered through the Crystal Falls, Michigan Library.  It gets into a lot of the background on the book and some of the stories from the writing of this kind of book. People in this video are Myself, Evelyn Gathu, Crystal Falls Librarian and Victor Volkman, President of the Upper Peninsula Publishers and Authors Association, UPPAA.

To know more about UPPAA and the U.P. Notable Books go here: http://uppaa.org

A Walk Among Giants – Estivant Pines – Copper Harbor – Michigan

We all like to take a walk in the woods. Trees towering over our heads and the wonderful smell of pine needles as the sun fights through the dense leaves creating the dappled light of the deep forest, is unlike anything else. Then add in some of the oldest trees in the Midwest, the legendary White Pines that were sought to near extinction by the lumbering companies. In the Upper Peninsula of Michigan there is such a place.

The Keweenaw Peninsula has no shortage of trees, their presence is everywhere their roots can gain a hold. Tall pines and oaks line the ridges and valleys throughout. Though breathtaking in their own right, 150 years ago much of the forest was removed for the progress of man and very little of the original forest remains. What we see now is the offsprings of the original wilderness. But, in a tract of land near Copper Harbor, Michigan, a small part of that original wilderness remains.

The Estivant Pines is one of the last stands of old growth pines left in the State of Michigan. Deep within the 500 acre tract which is administered by the Michigan Nature Association, are the much sought after towering old White Pines. There is a double loop trail that winds beneath these monsters of the wilderness making this walk in the woods unforgettable.

The first trail loop is 1 mile long and is called the Cathedral Grove loop. This hike goes through hardwoods and then meanders through 500 year old giant White Pines. Some of them are 125 feet tall. It is hard to comprehend the majesty of these trees until one is standing beneath them, looking up seemingly touching the sky.

The second loop, the Bertha Daubendiek Memorial Loop is 1.2 miles long. Bertha was the founder of the Michigan Nature Association. Pine, maple and oak grow along this trail with one of the pines having germinated as far back as 1695. Hiking both trails is about 2.5 miles, none of which is very rough. There are some ups and downs, but not overly strenuous.

Other attractions of the Estivant Pines is over 85 identified species of birds make the tract their home. This place is a bird watchers paradise. Also, this is a hiking only trail so meeting vehicles on the trail such as bicycles, isn’t happening here. There has been a recent boom in bicycling in Copper Harbor and many of the trails around the area are now multi-use.

To get to the Estivant Pines, drive to Copper Harbor in the Keweenaw Peninsula. In Copper Harbor, turn on 2nd street. This road will turn into Manganese Road. Follow this for 1.2 miles. On the left just out of Copper Harbor is Manganese Falls, it is well worth checking out. Turn left on Clark Mine Road. Public access to Lake Manganese is to the right, a beautiful spring fed lake, also worth checking out. Continue on Clark Mine Road for approximately 1.2 miles and turn right on Burma Road. Another half mile and you are at the parking area for the Estivant Pines.

This tract of land was originally owned by Edward Estivant who was from Paris, France. It was originally 2400 acres when Estivant purchased it. He eventually sold it to the Calumet Hecla Mining Company in 1947. Then in 1968 it went to the Universal Oil Company who purchased the land for logging and proceeded to cut 300 acres of it. The Michigan Nature Association stepped in and bought 200 acres of the remaining old growth in hopes of preserving a small portion of it. Local citizens worked with them to raise funds and organized a “Save the Pines” campaign. Even local school kids fund raised. In 1973 the Estivant pines was created. Since then more of the tract has been purchased and over 500 acres of the original 2400 is now in the hands of the Michigan nature Association.

The Estivant Pines is open to hiking and snowshoeing. This is a day use area, so there is no overnight camping of any kind. There is no cost to hike other than time. It is a worthwhile experience to walk among these old giants and is something that shouldn’t be overlooked while in the Copper Harbor area.

For more information, here are some websites:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Estivant_Pines

https://www.michigan.org/property/estivant-pines-nature-sanctuary

https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/michigan/estivant-pines-loop

My book Points North reviewed by Midwest Book Review

I received a note that pointed me to a review of my book Points North. It was from the Midwest Book Review and written by Carolyn Wilhelm. I really thought it was nice so I wanted to share it here.

Oh, this book helped me reminisce about the days when I could do primitive camping, hear loons, see wildlife, go canoeing, and enjoy the outdoors with relative privacy. It covers history, fishing, boating, hiking, walking, camping, with detailed location information in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (U.P.). How many camping spots, a few or many? Tents only, or are recreational vehicles allowed? Are canoes or motorboats allowed? Is the fishing good? Is the park or camping area away from roads and noise? Where should a family go for a good day trip? What animals are usually seen around the campsites? Is it a good location for photographers? Where do the seniors stay? Are there accessible trails for those who need them? Where can people who want a grueling climb and a sense of accomplishment find a spot for that type of exercise?

Details like this are usually only known by locals. This illustrated travel guide lets us in on these secrets not usually shared to have the best vacation possible for a single day or longer. Classen must have spent many years experiencing all the U.P. offers and kindly shares this off the beaten path information.

Carolyn Wilhelm, Reviewer
Wise Owl Factory LLC
https://www.thewiseowlfactory.com

Points North is an award winning book; Best Independent Publication 2020 – Historical Society of Michigan, U.P. Notable Book – Upper Peninsula Publishers and Authors Association; that details 40 different destinations across all areas of the U.P. To purchase Points North, click here.

Red Jacket / Calumet – Faces of the U.P.’s Past – 03/28/22

In my collection of old photos, I occasionally come across portrait style pictures, Unfortunately many of these are unidentified and we don’t know who these individuals are.  Maybe somewhere along the way, someone may know who these individuals are. The first picture was a lucky one because we have part of the name for these three ladies. The back of the photo says “These ladies probably were Lypsinmaas.” of all of the pictures on this page, it is the only one that has some form of identification.

What this does do, is give us a look into the faces that walked the streets of Red Jacket / Calumet in the 1880s and 90s. Walking along the streets one could easily encounter any one of these folks going about their daily business. The second picture is completely unknown though by looking at their faces, it appears that they are related. My guess would be brothers but it is impossible to be sure. It does illustrate the importance of labeling photographs  of families. We don’t normally think of ourselves as historical but as time moves on all things become historical by their representations of days and people gone by.

The next picture, which is a typical Red Jacket couple, seem to be economically reasonably well off. If nothing else we know they are probably wearing their “Sunday best.” Most of the locals worked in the copper mines where the companies paid low wages and worked long endless days of hard labor. The early days of living on the Keweenaw were hard and cold, yet Red Jacket / Calumet thrived with art and culture. A dozen nationalities converged on the region all in pursuit of wealth from the copper deposits. Cornish, Irish, Italians, Finns, Swedes, and Slavs, all became the backbone of the copper community of the Keweenaw.

Like many communities, there were those that put on uniforms. Our fourth picture shows an unknown soldier from Red Jacket / Calumet. (For those that are unaware, Red Jacket is the original name of the town of Calumet. Calumet was the original name of Laurium. In the 1920s, they moved the name of Calumet to Red Jacket and Calumet became Laurium.) Not being an expert of the military, I’m not sure what this uniform is from. I believe he has a bayonet holder on his belt. It is his English style bobby hat he has next to him that has me guessing. It would be really great to put a name to this guy. Actually it would be really great to put a name to any of these pictures.

As I stated earlier, these are all people that one would have met on the streets during daily life. This last picture shows a pair of unknown women that still seem to have an old world connection. The embroidery on the dress of the woman on the right seems Scandinavian or Slavic. It is hard to tell if they are related. These pictures are around 150 years old. They depict the faces of those that came to one of the harshest places on Earth to establish their places in the American Dream. These are the pioneers of the Upper Peninsula. These are the faces of the U.P.’s past.

Pictures courtesy of the Mikel B. Classen Collection of Historical Pictures

NEW BOOK!! True Tales, the Forgotten History of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula now on Amazon!

I just received notice that my new book, True Tales, the Forgotten History of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula is now live on Amazon. It is available in hardcover and softcover currently with the e-version in a few days. There will also be an audiobook. I know a lot of you have been waiting for this, so here’s your opportunity. As it settles into catalogs, it will also be available to order through bookstores.

Here are some of the reviews:

“Romantic ideas of the pioneer days in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula will fade quickly as these true tales of lawless, rugged, wild-weather, difficult times before about 1900 are perused. Laws were few, enforcement was scarce, violent events were often, and shipwrecks were many. However, opportunities to be a hero were as numerous and wonderful life-saving deeds of kindness and compassion are recorded in these pages as well. Classen does history an excellent service by revealing the truth. Sometimes we think humanity has advanced little. An attitude quickly challenged in these pages. Readers will feel gratitude for all they have today after finishing these tales.” –Carolyn Wilhelm, MA, Midwest Book Review

“Classen accomplished what he set out to do-provide readers with interesting and true tales about the U.P. He did not romanticize the history and told bold facts to enlighten the reader. The U.P. was uncharted territory with harsh beginnings. Captains battled terrible storms while sailing on Lake Superior. Corrupt entrepreneurs made money off the suffering of young women. Classen rang bells for unsung heroes. Much can be learned about Chase Osborn’s efforts-the man who became the first governor of Michigan from the U.P. and Peter White, founder of Marquette. So much can be learned by reading Classen’s book. It is highly recommended.” –Sharon Brunner, U.P. Book Review

Here is the link to order on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/True-Tales-Forgotten-Michigans-Peninsula/dp/1615996354/

 

Ironwood – Faces of the U.P. Past – Unknown

A photograph of unknown persons taken in Ironwood Michigan by O.L. Thornbladh.

I recently acquired some old photos of individuals from across the U.P. Many of them are unknown as to the identity of the individuals in them. I have that issue with the one above. I have no idea what is going on in this, but it looks similar to one I have where a known outlaw is having his picture taken with the sheriff after being arrested. It is also from Ironwood and the individual on the right in the back looks a lot like the sheriff in that picture. If anyone has any information regarding this, I would really appreciate hearing from you. Currently I’ve dubbed this the “Ironwood Bad Boys.” If nothing else it is a really awesome picture from the U.P.’s past.

Copper Country Early Engravings – 1860’s Keweenaw Copper Range Pictures

This image is of miners washing the tailings from copper mining ore as it was brought out of the mine.

A while back I acquired an old magazine from 1860 that had a few drawings of the early days of mining in the Upper Peninsula. These were printed when the copper boom was rising giving us in this century, some of the earliest images of the beginning of this era of our history.

Mining in the early days was intensely dangerous, even more so than today. The rock was blasted with dynamite and the miners only had a single candle to see what they were doing. The guy holding the chisel has to have a lot of trust in his co-workers.

The danger of those days can’t be understated. There was poor lighting and high explosives were used on a regular basis. The threat of cave-ins and flooding were constant. Accidents abounded.

Getting ore out to where it could be shipped wasn’t easy. This shows Lake Linden in the distance as viewed from one of the mines. The entire track can be seen and it shows the extremes of getting the ore out. I’ve seen this as a photograph as well.

Getting the ore out of the Upper Peninsula wilderness was no easy task. The picture above shows not only that aspect, but the process of getting it to shipping. The track runs down the incline to a plant below. The copper ore was then smelted into large ingots (copper bricks) and then shipped south through the Great Lakes. Millions of tons were mined, smelted and then shipped during the copper boom, much of it like the picture above.

This is an early copper mine hoist. This is long before the immense steel hoists dominated the peninsula.

In the early days, wood was the only building material available to build the necessary structures for mining. It wasn’t until steel and equipment could be shipped into Lake Superior that the steel hoists came into prominence. This is just a small bit of our mining history.