Camping along the Sturgeon River is a true north country experience.
Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness Area – Baraga/Houghton Counties
A millennium of natural creation has give us one of the most spectacular sights of the Upper Peninsula. Dubbed the “Grand Canyon” of the U.P., the Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness Area is mile after mile of the best of remote wilderness. Fortunately, getting there isn’t difficult, and the scenery and views are breathtaking, making this region a destination for the locals who know about it. It can be enjoyable any time of the year, but fall will send a visitor away with the knowledge of having viewed a true wonder.
The Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness is carved out of approximately 20 miles of land between M-38 and M-28, 12 miles southwest of Baraga. This section is remote. It is situated right on the line between Baraga and Houghton Counties and a few signs let you know that you’re on the right trail.
You will have to be something of an explorer to enjoy it, but the effort will be well worth it. This is not for the faint of heart. Some previous experience in the outdoors is advised. You can get lost and you can get hurt. Cell phones don’t work well in the area and can’t be counted on. It is isolated. The roads are all good throughout. They are dirt, but they are graded and passable with any vehicle.
Entrance Sign for Campground which is written in marking pen.
To get there, go west of Baraga on M-38 for about 10 miles, and turn right after the road crosses the Sturgeon River. Travel south for 8 miles, past the Prickett Dam and backwater; this is the Sturgeon dammed up. Another couple miles will get you into the Silver Mountain vicinity—the first sight in the wilderness area, which should be seen.
Another route into the area is near Sidnaw on M-28. One-half mile east of Sidnaw, a dirt road goes to the north, right after the airport. Drive a little over 2 miles to a fork in the road. Take the right-hand road; after about 3.5 miles, a small campground will be on the lefthand side—the beginning of the gorge on the south end.
This area once held a World War II German prison camp, and once you make it out here you will easily see why the area was chosen. The wilds were and are still dense and thick making life more of a hell in escaping than staying a prisoner. Getting lost out there was a death sentence. Some of the locals from Sidnaw would bring them mittens and occassional treats. Though prisoners, they were not badly treated.
All that remains of the World War II prison camp. One of the guard towers sits at Sidnaw.
Between Silver Mountain and the campground you will find spectacular scenery rarely seen by the traditional U.P. visitor. A variety of Michigan mountains and high rock bluffs populate the range. So does wildlife such as black bear, cougar, and wolves. Caution must be taken when hiking or camping.
Several scenic pullouts are here but are unmarked. You’ll have to do some of your own exploring. Some of the many trails that lead toward the river will come out at overlooks, while others will wind down into the lower
elevations.
This view is from an overlook called the “Bear Den.”
Once you establish basic familiarity with the gorge, knowing the region more intimately won’t take long. The road follows the general course of the river, so any trails heading its direction will access a different section of the Sturgeon.
Though recreational activities along the Sturgeon River are limited, the area is one of the finest to enjoy the possible ones. Each season has its own charm and unique character. Hiking, fishing, white-water rafting, snowmobiling, off-road vehicle touring, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, large-game hunting, and sightseeing are all enjoyed in the area.
A rainbow graces the wild and rushing Sturgeon River.
The North Country Trail runs along this section of river, giving unrestricted foot access to the valleys and cliffs. Virtually every part of the river is accessible. For backpackers and hikers, this trail offers everything. It is strenuous enough to test skills, no matter the level of hiker. Moderate sections and hard scrambling steep inclines exist. Road accesses are close enough that hikers can chose from a variety of distances and difficulties so that most can find some portion, if not several, that will please them. The trail is a boon for fishermen too.
The Sturgeon River is an excellent trout stream through this area. Rocky and wide, it provides fly and bait anglers a memorable fishing excursion. Sections of waterfalls, white water, and holes have over the years produced many large catches. Spring, summer, and fall are prime fishing months. Winter of course provides incomparable snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. The gorge is ungroomed, so the experience is isolated and exhaustive—perhaps exactly the challenge you are looking for. Once back in the gorge, the scenery is breathtaking, with all of the majesty that ice and snow can deliver.
The rugged country of the Sturgeon River as it cuts through the Upper Peninsula north of Sidnaw.
Tall cliffs decorate with massive icicles from flowing and freezing springs. Deep, massive drifts of snow adorn the ledges and summits. The constantly flowing river continuously creates sculptures of the natural forms along the riverbed. Access this time of year is by snowmobile only. The roads are seasonal but worth the effort.
Springtime’s rushing white water tempts paddlers, but sections of the river are closed because they are too dangerous. Research is a must. One sign warns that “while the river below here is of intermediate skill level, difficult water occurs about 1.5 miles before the Sturgeon River Falls. A more difficult ledge drop occurs just before the falls itself. It is imperative to be on the river right and take out above this faster water or risk being swept over the falls to a probable death. Water below the falls is continuously more difficult. Scout all rapids before running them!” Fast and treacherous, the Sturgeon River is for those who really want to challenge a river. The frequent road access makes it convenient for support vehicles.
The Sturgeon River Falls is a fast flowing, dangerous section of river a must portage for paddlers.
This brings me to one of the most spectacular sites in the Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness, the Sturgeon River Falls. This breathtaking section of river can be accessed from the Forest Road. The hike is about a mile and is a switchback downhill, uphill on the way out. Care should be taken around the falls as the rocks can be slippery and dangerous. Once there, spending time taking in the river, the falls, and the surrounding scenery of high bluffs will grip your soul. It has become a personal favorite that I return to time and time again.
Because of the extensive system of forest service roads, the area is ideal for off-road vehicles (though beware of some roads closed to ATVs) and snowmobiles. The Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness is fast becoming an attraction among trail riders. Off-roaders are allowed as long as they stay on the designated trails. The routes are nicely laid out, highlighting the gorge extensively.
The view from the top of Silver Mountain looking east.
For sightseers, the pullouts provide views of the expansive valleys the river has carved. For this, fall has the most impact. A climb to the top of Silver Mountain will allow you to see all the way back to Baraga and then some. The effort is worth it, but the stairway up is in need of repair, and caution must be taken. The Forest Service has commented they may just remove it since Silver Mountain attracts a lot of rock climbers. Pins can be seen in the rocks on the way up. If the stairs is gone, a bit of creative maneuvering on the rocks can still get one to the summit. The summit is basically bare, so looks can be taken from any direction. With the fall colors, there’s nothing like it. The forest canopy is of thick hardwood and pine mix, which adds diversity of color that goes completely unnoticed in color-tour recommendations.
The campground on the south end of the gorge is a beautiful little rarely used site. Positioned on a bend in the Sturgeon, it’s a pleasant place to spend some time. Only a few sites are here, but camping costs nothing. Picnic tables, fire pits, vault toilets, and hand-pumped freshwater are provided. The sites are primitive with no hookups, but if you like roughing it a bit, this can be a place for you. If you like to do some exploring and investigating, what can be discovered here is rewarding. Experience the U.P.’s Grand Canyon.
If you enjoyed this and would like to read more things like this, then check out my book: Points North.
For more information on the Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness Area, Check out the links:
Ottawa National Forest – Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness (usda.gov)
Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness – Wikipedia
More info at http://pointsnorthbooks.com/sites
All writing and photos by Mikel B. Classen.
The mist dances above the Sturgeon River Falls in the sunshine.